tips

Transparent Water Elemental
	Materials: Transparent plastic drinks bottle Base (this is a resin base, but any clear plastic will do) Epoxy resin Gloss varnish		Stage 1 Cut a shape like this from the bottle, and attach it to the base using epoxy. Gradually build the shape by smearing the plastic with layers of epoxy.		Stage 2 Varnish the whole model - I added a tiny drop of turquoise ink to the varnish.

   

	Gelatinous Cube
	Materials: Tin Foil Clear resin Gloss Varnish Contents of cube - I'm putting a skeleton in mine.		Stage 1 Fold a cube from a single piece of foil - I wrapped it round some lego. Paint your pieces to put inside, and use a blob of varnish to glue them down.		Stage 2 Weigh out your resin components, and mix. I always have a clean mould handy when I mix resin, to use up any surplus.
	Stage 3 Pour the resin into the foil mould and cover to prevent dust until cured. Depending on the strength of the foil it may need some support .		Stage 4 Remove the foil from the outside of the cube once it's completely dry. You may have to scrape some bits off with a craft knife.		Stage 5 Give the sides a couple of coats of gloss varnish, to make them more transparent.

 

	The Watcher in the Water (Click thumbnails for larger images)
	Materials: Plastic octopus Clear bases Epoxy Resin Clear Silicone Sealant		Stage 1 The octopus was originally flat. To curve the tentacles, I tied them together and soaked the toy in hot water. When it cooled they stayed curved as I wanted.		Stage 2 Spray the model, then remove the tentacles. Hold each over the table, then trim the end to a suitable angle.
	Stage 3 Attach each of the tentacles to a base, and paint them.		Stage 4 Smear the top of the base with clear epoxy. When dry, add some clear silicone sealant, and use a pointed tool to add water splash around the tentacle.		Stage 5 I may make the Watcher's head sometime, or just use these as Evard's Black Tentacles.

 

	Slime Slugs (Click thumbnails for larger images)
	Materials: Base Clear Plastic Sheet (Blister Pack) Clear Epoxy Adhesive (Araldite Instant) Acrylic Gloss Varnish Ink		Stage 1 Select a suitable base for your model - this one is from A&K Tiny Bricks Floor Tiles range.		Stage 2 Paint the base as desired.
	Stage 3 Cut some ribs from the clear plastic sheet - I made one for each slot in the grate. These will make it easier to form the shape of the slug.		Stage 4 Glue the ribs to the base. I used acrylic gloss varnish to attach mine, and filled the slots with varnish too. The epoxy I used is quite viscous, and I wasn't certain it would flow into the small spaces in the grate.		Stage 5 Once any glue or varnish is thoroughly set, mix a small amount of epoxy adhesive. Apply this to the model between the ribs with a fine applicator - a toothpick or cocktail stick is perfect.
	Stage 6 Gradually build up the shape you want using more epoxy, allowing each layer to set before applying another. The eye-stalks were drawn out carefully when the epoxy was almost set.		Stage 7 Clamp the model with the eye-stalks pointing downwards, and add a drop of acrylic varnish to the end of each.		Stage 8 Finally add a little colour to the model, if you like. Mix a little ink with some gloss varnish and coat the whole slug.

 

	Submerged Body (Click thumbnails for larger images)
	Materials: Clear Model Base Pin Vice & Drill Bits Clear Epoxy Adhesive Clear Silicone Sealant Acrylic Gloss Varnish Paint & Inks Spare Zombie Parts		Stage 1 Take a spare head and arm from the zombie sprue, and clean off any flash and mould lines.		Stage 2 Mount the parts on map pins, and blu-tac them to a piece of card. This will allow you to undercoat them evenly all over, and makes painting subsequent layers much easier.
	Stage 3 For a base coat mix a tiny amount of blue into a drop of flesh colour.		Stage 4 Wash with a mix of green & flesh ink washes.		Stage 5 Mix the base colour with slightly less blue and carefully apply highlights.
	Stage 6 Drill a hole right through the base to fit the arm. Drill a suitable cavity part way into the underside of the base to accept the head.		Stage 7 Mix a couple of drops of clear epoxy adhesive. Using a cocktail stick, smear some of the glue over the face, ensuring any cavities are filled with no air-bubbles.		Stage 8 Use more of the epoxy to part fill the cavity in the base, again ensuing not to leave any air-bubbles.
	Stage 9 Stick the head into the cavity face first. Turn over to check you have no bubbles, and then leave to set.		Stage 10 Mix another small amount of epoxy, and glue the arm into the hole. Leave to dry thoroughly.		Stage 11 Using a craft knife or a razor saw, carefully remove the back of the head, and any of the arm which protrudes below the underside of the base.
	Stage 12 Cover the arm, and the top of the base liberally with two thick coats of clear varnish.		Stage 13 Add a small quantity of clear silicone sealant to the base of the arm. Use the tip of a cocktail stick to draw out some "water splashes".		Stage 14 If you want the water to appear murky, use a mix of green, brown and yellow ink washes on the upper surface of the base.

 

	Cube of Force  (Click thumbnails for larger images)
	Materials: Colour printer Suitable acetate Click the image on the left to open the .pdf file.		Stage 1 Download and print the .pdf file onto acetate suitable for your printer.		Stage 2 Place the acetate with the printed side down, and score the fold lines using the back of a craft knife.
	Stage 3 Carefully cut around the edges of the piece with a sharp knife or scissors. Fold the piece along all the scored lines.		Stage 4 Attach double-sided tape to each of the tabs, and assemble the cube.		Stage 5 The finished cube should be 5cm (2") on each side, and should fit comfortably over most miniatures.