- Plastic Tennis Ball tube (3 tennis balls per tube)
- The other half of the shampoo bottle from the boiler project
- hardboard, MDF, or old panelling
- 1/2" PVC Pipe (offcuts or buy a 10' length for about $6 US
- 1/2" PVC pipe fittings (elbows, Ts, joints, Reducers, etc) about $.50 ea. US
- Bendy Straws
- Model Parts
- Card, paper, seed beads, solder, Bitz etc.
MethodI started by laying the pieces out on a 6" square piece of panelling and arranging them in different patterns. I then used Gary's time-honored technique of drinking beer (Imported English Pale Ale to get in the British terrain building state of mind) and setting my miniatures up making sounds. This Really DID help!! Honestly (see- and you thought I was just eccentric- Gary).
I then got a suitable pattern for my things and glued them all together. TIP: You might try leaving open T connections in your piping, to facillitate adding more pipes once the buildings are arranged. These could serve to make your table more flexible by adding piping designs that are different everytime you play. My pipe connections are NOT glued together for that purpose. They are just fitted together snugly.
I then added bendy straws to the tank in different lengths. The pressure valve that you see is the Pro Stock Modified Steering wheel from a '57 Chevy model. The Pipes are further detailed by paper or card plates glued on with seed bead rivets here and there.
The Imperial Eagle Emblem is my personal favorite. I used The Imperial Font (thanks Jon) to print a small A at size 72 on a piece of paper. I then cut carefully around the design making 4 seperate pieces, the wingspan, the heads, and the tail. I then glued them onto the tank AFTER it was painted. The eagle was painted yellow, and black in the details (between the pieces) You can't tell by the photographs, but it looks like a raised emblem. TIP: Regular paper thickness really shows up in a terrain project. The whole thing was then blended, and drybrushed to hide the thick black paint lines.