Paints used
| Dark Burnt Umber | Burnt Umber | Gnoll Flesh | Mudstone | TerraCotta Red | Plate Steel | Mithril Silver | Tin Bitz |
| Delta | Delta | Reaper | Delta | GW | Reaper | GW | GW |
If any of this can't be found, you can either find a similar color from a different brand or you can mix your way to a quality version of it. The last three are metallics, so you should try getting them as they are. But I do believe Plate Steel(Reaper) and Bolt Gun Metal(GW) are interchangable.
STEP ONE: Wash and Prime
Unfortunetly, all of mine have been primed and are somewhat painted, so there are no visuals for this first step. But it shouldn't be hard to follow without photo reference. Take your miniature and wash it with soap and hot water and then dry. This will remove any oils and grime that could have possibly ended up on the figure. It really helps keep the primer on, and makes the miniature last longer.
After washing and drying, setup a newspapered area and begin priming with black primer. Take short quick sprays all over the standing miniature, trying not to make a heavy coat. Do not spray it close, and try not holding one position long when spraying to keep the priming thin. Thick amounts of primer can ruin the detail of the miniature.
Once this first coat is accomplished, let the miniature dry then lay it on its back, front or side, and prime the missed areas. Again, try keeping these to short quick sprays. After it dries, rotate and repeat until the miniature is solid black. Underneat the base of the miniature doesn't need to be painted though, as it will eventually scratch away anyway from use. If you miss any small areas with the spray on primer, try using a paint on primer to fix these tiny mistakes, then paint them black once dry. STEP TWO: Distinguishing The Miniature
If you notice, each miniature for the Doom game is either Blue, Green or Red. To keep this concept, I've painted the rim of the base the matching color. Heres a simple paint guide to match:
| Bright Red | Azure Blue | Hunter Green |
| Delta | Delta | Delta |
It will probably take two to three coats to get the rim to look solid and vibrant, so take your time. If you get a bit of color on the base of the miniature, just get out some black paint and overlay the mistake until its not noticable.
STEP THREE: First Layer(Dark Flesh Tone)
The next step is to use the Dark Umber Brown as a quick drybrush layer. This color is so dark of a brown, you wont be able to tell much if you miss too much. Basically you want to drybrush anywhere that isn't metal(forearm guns, back of head). Drybrushing is a technique where you dab a medium sized brush into your paint, and paint off most of the paint from the bristles onto a piece of paper, then start brushing over the miniature. This technique makes it so the parts of the miniature that stick out get painted, while crevices, cracks, and everything else gets untouched. This will pop out the texture really nicely once we move to the following steps.
STEP FOUR: Second Layer(Medium Flesh Tone)
This time we will use the Burnt Umber brown for a new drybrush layer. Take your time, and drybrush across the body once again with this lighter brown. Make sure to let some of the darker color show through as you do this, so it gives the body a sense of gradience from dark to light. Make sure you've also brushed out the majority of the ink from the bristles of the brush before you begin. Too much ink can really make a mess while trying to drybrush.
STEP FIVE: Third Layer(Lightest Flesh Tone)
This last drybrush layer we will use the Gnoll Flesh. Be very sparing in this drybrush layer, as it will be the highlights of the dingy flesh of the Mancubus. Take your time, and make sure to have as little paint in your brush when drybrushing.
STEP SIX: Eyes and Nails
Next are the easy parts. Take your fine detail brush, and load it with just a little bit of terracotta red. With a steady hand, paint in the eyeballs. Wash out the brush, then load it with Mudstone(greyish yellow), and paint each individual nail on the feet of the Mancubus. Take your time, and if you get any paint on the base of the miniature, just go back with black paint and clean it up once the paint is dry.
STEP SEVEN: Metallics
Here's where the mechanical parts come to life. Take either Plate Steel or Boltgun Metal and prepare the brush for drybrushing. take your time across the mechanical parts, and it will start to look really nice with the black in the cracks of the mechanical parts, and dark metal around the rest. Make sure this is a heavy wide coat.
Next, clean your brush and load it with some Mithril Silver and prepare it for drybrushing. This time be very sparing, and just get the edges of the mechanical parts. This will create a really nice highlighting effect.
The last part is to use the Tin Bitz, and paint random parts of the metal such as a cable or two, and paint them with this copper/bronze colored metallic paint. This will mix it up a bit, its purely optional.
STEP EIGHT: Varnish
A Varnish is basically a clear hold on the miniature's paint job to ensure there will be less chances of cracking and chipping down the road. There are several Varnishes out there, I use the Delta Matte Varnish. Out of any brand you purchase(Armory, Reaper, GW, Vallejo, Delta) make sure to get a Matte Varnish, not the Gloss. A Gloss varnish can make your miniature look really shiny and ugly. Its not that pretty, trust me. I use a paint-on varnish, but you can try a spray varnish, just use a similar technique as priming, with quick small sprays from a distance. Thin coats are important in this process, because the more it builds, the shinier the miniature can become. Shine equals Bad. After this, your miniature is ready to do some damage in Doom.
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