I've rode some tutorials about painting rust in the last months and thought it was time to give it a try. My first testpieces were some oildrums I had cast some times ago. I tried two different techniques to achieve two different effects - some barrels with heavy chipping of the still visible paint and some totally rusted pieces. And I can tell you not everything went as good as hoped.
Technique 1: Chipped off paint with the use of hairspray:
In a first step I primed the oildrums with a spraycan in a dark red-brown acrylpaint and let it dry properly. Then I applied two heavy coats of hairspray I "borrowed" from my wife (please don't tell her). As long as the hairspray is still wet I sprinkled some salt upon some of the barrels.
After drying I applied a second layer of paint. Again I used a spraycan - this time a leftover from an other project. This was a special acrylic color (terracotta effect, weatherproof) in a sand tone. And this was no good idea I had to learn later.
A heavy drybrush with a pale beige acrylic color was the next step.
Theoretically the upper color would lift off easyly by carefull brushing with a wet brush. The water shoud solve the hairspray and the color on top would strip off in very realistic patches. But the sand color was weatherproof and the water couldn't solve the hairspray. Next time I will use normal acrylic colors.
So I used a modelling tool to scrap off the sand colored paint. Sadly this removed the brown basic color often. I used a dark grey resin for the barrels so the effect wasn't too bad because the scratches looked like metal. The result of this step can be seen in the next pictures.
I repainted some of the bigger chippings with a dark reddish brown to simulate old rust.
Then I applied some washes with diluted airbrush colors (Schmincke AEROCOLOR) in different tones (Burnt Sienna, Umber, Black). This washings and some accents with unthinned airbrush colors in rust tones added some richness in colors to the overall result and some nice details as vokal points.
At last I carefully added some dark silver akrylic colors to the edges where rust and paint was weared off from moving or rolling the barrels and the bare metal would be visible .
Here are the pictures of the final results:
Technique 2: Great rusty areas with the use of dry pigments:
I used some tank barriers and some hollow cast and deformed oil barrels. These were undercoated with the same dark reddish brown color from a spraycan as the barrels above.
I used dry pigments (Weathering Powder from NOCH) and the pigment fixer from MIG for this technic. The used colors can be seen in the next pictures.
In a first step I used the pigments by mixing them with the pigment fixer. This can be done in two ways.
1. Mix the different tones on a palette (I used a piece of plasticsheet) and apply the mix with an old brush
2. Apply the dry pigments with a synthetic brush to the barrels and carefully use an other old brush (or an airbrush) to add the fixer right on the object you paint.
I tryed both methods on two oildrums each and I can't tell a big difference. With the use of the fixer the pigments stuck very good to the models.
In a second step I brushed some pigments to some areas of the dryed models. This add some further variations in colors and gives an very dull finish.
In a last step I used the tip of an soft pencil to add very cautious some bare metal to some exposed edges of the barrels.
Click HERE for a bigger version of this picture (2048x1536)
Click HERE for a bigger version of this picture (2048x1536)
The tank barriers and barbed wire were treated the same way and the results can be seen in the next pictures.
Click HERE for a bigger version of this picture (2048x1536)
Click HERE for a bigger version of this picture (2048x1536)
I am very pleased with the results. Especially the second technique (pigments with fixer) is very effectiv for larger areas or whole models and look very realistic. I will do more pieces in the not so far future.
And the next time I try the technique 1 (hairspray) I will use an ordinary acrylic color for the second layer - lesson learned.
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