Hi, here r some step by step pics on recasting parts using milliput
(a brand of epoxy putty), which are quite self explanatory. I use talcum
powder as mold release, but I heard from Pazu (thanks) that lip balm
works as well. Objects to be recasted must not have undercut or it will
be locked into the mold, destroying your hard work.
Original part, spliced from leftover ball joints of my old kits
Press this part onto a block of milliput (along its plane of symmetri.. hope i got the spelling correct). Remember to coat both the part, and the milliput surface with talcum powder. Wait for the milliput to fully cure.
Once fully cured, press another block of milliput onto the earlier block, with the original part still in place.
Voila... mold is ready. the part in the middle is the recasted part. Just put in a smallblock of milliput into the cavity , coat with talcum powder, and squeeze. You may need to repeatedly open up the molds, remove excess milliput, and squeeze again, until the shape is correct. tedious, but it works.. Extra tip, wait for the recasted item to fully cure, then pry it out of the mold using the leftover 'flesh' around the recasted part. This way you don't damage the actual part.
Here's another example:-
Notice the small hole in the corner of mold on the left. I intentially drilled this in to act as an escape for excess milliput. So when I squeeze the mold together, the excess milliput will be squeezed out like toothpaste. Also, when the part is cured, you can push the part out via this hole as well... dual function!
Final Recasted part with the flesh removed.
other sample:
Original part, spliced from leftover ball joints of my old kits
Press this part onto a block of milliput (along its plane of symmetri.. hope i got the spelling correct). Remember to coat both the part, and the milliput surface with talcum powder. Wait for the milliput to fully cure.
Once fully cured, press another block of milliput onto the earlier block, with the original part still in place.
Voila... mold is ready. the part in the middle is the recasted part. Just put in a smallblock of milliput into the cavity , coat with talcum powder, and squeeze. You may need to repeatedly open up the molds, remove excess milliput, and squeeze again, until the shape is correct. tedious, but it works.. Extra tip, wait for the recasted item to fully cure, then pry it out of the mold using the leftover 'flesh' around the recasted part. This way you don't damage the actual part.
Here's another example:-
Notice the small hole in the corner of mold on the left. I intentially drilled this in to act as an escape for excess milliput. So when I squeeze the mold together, the excess milliput will be squeezed out like toothpaste. Also, when the part is cured, you can push the part out via this hole as well... dual function!
Final Recasted part with the flesh removed.
other sample:
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