Trash Bashing a Sci -Fi Vehicle From Start to Finish: Part 2.
Now
it just comes down to gluing and puttying everything into a nice solid
mass. You can see here that I also used various thicknesses of styrene
sheet to add panels, a door in the back, and other details. Now is when
the real fun of trash bashing starts. Try to get a good overall amount
of detail without leaving one area too sparse while overloading another.
Although sci-fi vehicle design is often more whimsical than functional
try to think about what your vehicle needs and what certain parts can
represent.
The Bates Industries Roadpig DX. |
I
use primarily cyanoacrylate glue but occasional epoxy glue when
required. Milliput yellow-grey is used to fill gaps and sculpt details,
like the seal around the cockpit bubble, that I can’t find good bits
for. Milliput seems to work better for this than any other modeling
putty since it sticks pretty well and can be smoothed with water before
sanding once it’s cured. I’ve found that wetting the area that I’m going
to apply it to helps it to stick better while trying to blend joins and
transitions.
The
rear door, leading to storage and the engine compartment, is
scratchbuilt out of styrene. The taillights are plastic hemispheres that
I found in the craft section. They usually come with an adhesive on the
back but I scraped this off to make sure that super glue would stick.
They are based on circles of styrene punched out using a bunch of
various sized punches that I’ve collected.
Try to add several layers of detail to heighten visual interest. |
For
the wheels I used soda caps with their edges sanded smooth and then
glued in pairs. The axel housing is just a hunk of balsa wood covered in
sheet styrene. I carved out an indentation in the top to allow the
rounded container to fit snugly on it. I use balsa wood to build forms
like this since it’s quicker than trying to build a whole shape out of
styrene and it’s much stronger as well.
A twelve-pack of Diet Mountain Dew gave its life so that this car could roll. |
The
hubcaps are made using Insta-Mold from Cool Mini or Not. This is a very
useful low-temp melting silicone that allows you to make simple
castings. I made a master part using a washer and some of the craft
hemispheres. These were then cast using various putties. This gives a
more regular feel to the piece and is much easier than trying to
scratchbuild each part.
This stuff is great for making multiple copies of that one really neat greebly that you only have one of. |
All
of the parts are glued on and puttied I usually go over it again with
medium grit sandpaper before painting. Then I go over it lightly with a
damp paper towel to get rid of the worst of the sanding dust.
Next up Priming and Painting!
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