I had been out of the painting game for quite a bit I was completely
out of my favorite Dupli-color Black primer. I had some Krylon Flat
White primer on hand so I chose to go with that and perform an
experiment I'd been meaning to try for some time now for just such an
emergency. The idea is to prime with the white and then wash with black,
to cover 80~90% of the white, giving you the best of both essentially.
The trick is will it obscure fine details?
decided to try 2 options since I had 2 bases to work with. For the
first base, I used straight P3 Armor Wash. For the second base, I used a
concoction of my own which I call "Grunge Wash". It's essentially VMC
Smoke, VMC Black Glaze, Matte Medium, and distilled water mixed up in a
dropper bottle. Here's the results:
you can see, the P3 Armor Wash was pretty thin and didn't stick very
well to the flatter surfaces. This could be mitigated somewhat by adding
some Matte Medium, but that won't help the thin pigmentation coverage.
My "Grunge" did much better, especially considering that's straight over
bare white primer. I designed it for simulating oil & grease
streaks, so it had to stay where it was applied. For caked on oily dirt I
sprinkle a little fine sand into it before it dries to give it texture.
So experiment over, I gave both bases another quick wash of thinned black paint to set them both to black and move on.
Step 1 Base coat all metal objects with P3 Pig Iron (or other steel metallic of your choice.)
Step 2 Base coat the dirt areas with P3 Gun Corps Brown (or other light brown of your choice.)
Step 3 Base coat the rocks with P3 Trollblood Highlight (or other warm gray of your choice.)
now all of the elements on these bases have been picked out in one of
three colors. While that might seem overly simplistic, bear with me. We
can make this as simple or as complicated as we want later on.
Step 4 Wash
all metals and dirt with thinned P3 Bloodstone (or other red brown of
your choice.) Matte Medium is important as you want this to stick on the
flat areas of the metals as well as run into the recesses of the dirt
and such. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Step 5 Wash
all metals and rocks with thinned GAFA Payne's Grey (or other dark blue
of your choice.) Again, Matte Medium is important as you want this to
stick on the flat areas of the metals as well as run into the recesses
of the rocks and such. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Step 6 Wash
everything with thinned P3 Umbral Umber (or other dark brown of your
choice.) Once again, Matte Medium is important as you want this to stick
on the flat areas of the metals as well as run into the recesses of the
dirt and such. Allow to dry thoroughly.
this point, if you're in a hurry you could clean up the edges and call
it done. Especially if you're painting a mass of bases at once. You can
always come back later and pick out a few details to fix them up a bit
as you have time.
Step 7 Drybrush the rocks with P3 Cryx Bane Highlight (or an olive drab of your choice.)
Step 8 Drybrush the rocks again with P3 Trollblood Highlight (or the warm gray you base coated them with.)
Step 9 Drybrush the dirt with P3 Gun Corps Brown (or the light brown you base coated it with.)
Step 10 Drybrush the dirt with P3 Hammerfall Khaki (or a tan / bone color of your choice.) Catch the highest edges of the rocks as well.
Step 11 Highlight
the metal objects with P3 Pig Iron (or the metal you base coated them
with.) The metallic will "pop" in comparison to the dull washed areas
around it. You don't need to go any higher up in value of color unless
you want to show a "new" metal. I'm after aged and weather metal bits
here, so just a few shiny edges here and there are more than enough to
convey the idea that they are still metal.
Step 12 Lightly
wash the dirt areas with thinned P3 Umbral Umber (or the dark brown you
used before.) I do not do this uniformly. I try to mottle the dirt and
break it up. I also use the brown to outline the objects where they meet
the dirt and deepen the crevices in the rocks.
Step 13 Rust.
I alwyas see questions about how to make good looking rust. If you
don't have a bottle of VMC 131 Orange Brown do yourself a HUGE favor and
buy one. You'll wonder how you ever got by without it. My rust always
starts out as thinned VMC 131 Orange Brown. I then add other colors to
it to push/pull it in the direction I want it to go. In this case I
added a slight bit of the P3 Bloodstone to tie it back to the coloration
of the metals. Apply as sparingly or as liberally as you want. Remember
that rust usually collects where water collects, so in this case around
the edges of the plates and in the recesses of the gear, etc. I also
spread it out into the dirt as it will stain the dirt around it. (Which
is why I made sure the dirt was painted first.)
Step 14 + 15 Brass.
The brass casings are easy. Since they're already based, I just lightly
highlight them with VMC 174 Brass. This paint doesn't have great
coverage (like any gold based paint) but when you go over a silver base
it's a snap. To simulate oxidation and tarnish I hit them with the
thinned P3 Umbral Umber again.
Step 16 I
paint my base rings black. I know that's not popular in that "other"
game circuit, but it works for me. Several coats of dull spray sealer
and the paint is finished.
finish these up I just glued a few dabs of burnt static grass to
contrast with all of the brown and added some Still Water mixed with
green ink in the recess on the second base. I'll likely add some ripples
to this once I get the planned model attached to it.
So here is the official YoungWolf7 Review of the Dragon Forge Design Wasteland II series of resin bases: Quality: 9.5 / 10
quality of these castings still impresses me. I've seen much worse out
of so called "pro" operations. (No, I won't name names.) Knowing that
Dragon Forge is essentially a one-man operation makes it even more
impressive. Creativity: 9 / 10
a lot of thought went into placing the objects on the bases so that
there were still plenty of options to attach model's feet to them. All
too often you'll see a cluttered base with no place to stand a model. To
me that's a complete waste of time. These are easy to deal with, with
room to add more stuff if you like. Variety: 9/10
not often that you'll see 10 different bases in a trooper size, but you
do here. I'm a variety junkie though, so I crave even more. Dragon
Forge does have other base lines that are designed to complement /
interchange with the Wasteland II bases so I'll be picking those up very
soon. Paintability: 10 / 10
The acid test
for me was how fun were they to paint. These were fun and I'm already
eyeing the rest of the range even though I'm supposed to be recovering
right now. Overall: 9.5 / 10
To say that
I'm happy with these bases would be an understatement. I can't give them
a perfect rating as nothing's perfect, but they're darn close IMO. To
our WARMACHINE / HORDES readers: you may notice that Dragon Forge
doesn't currently offer much in the way of WM style round lip bases.
They are working on this and are completely open to suggestions. Contact
Jeff through their website and tell him what YOU would like to see.
I've given him my suggestions, and maybe when I'm fully recovered I can
start helping him out by sculpting a few. I can tell you that if I
hadn't sold off my Mercs to pay bills they'd be standing on his square
cut slate tile bases though. Those are cool for city-dwellers.