Realistic Drool
by Sean Fultonaka Jabberwocky
I whipped this together after some folks asked how I did the drool on my eyebeast.
Step 1: Gather the tools
The things needed for the drool I make are pretty simple. You need an "armature" for the drool to hang off of. Here I have used 4 pound test fishing line, but anything that is thin, fairly flexible, and clear will do. For the drool itself, I used two types of glue. I like the Gel Control Loctite for the base of the drool, then regular Loctite superglue for building it up. Again, anything that dries clear would work well, and I think PVA glue would suffice. Finally, gloss varnish will be the last item you will need.
Step 2: The skeleton and first layer
First, I cut the fishing line to length. I cut it a bit longer than what I am going to need. This allows for two things; I can hang the line vertically on a pen or pencil with some putty or tack (as seen here) and I have a little room for error to get the drool the right length. The pen and tack just make it easier to get that "blob" at then end of the drool due to water tension.
Next I add the gel type superglue. I prefer this as my initial layer because I can "mold" it a bit with a toothpick to pull the glue down along the thread and get it in a position that I prefer. I place the blob of glue up near the tack and then use a toothpick or the nozzle of the superglue to tease the glue down the line until the majority of it is at the tip. This gives you the nice "blob" from water tension seen with real life drool. The regular superglue especially (and to a lesser degree PVA) is very fluid and since you are trying to get it to stick to a very thin piece of fishing line, and in my experience was a pain in the bahooky to try and control. The glue just dripped off the end of the line, leaving only a very small portion still coating the tip. Allow this to dry.
Here is a close up of Step 2:
Step 3: Thickening the spit
At this point, I use something a bit more liquid. You could add more gel if you want, but I prefer the thinner stuff now because it tends to layer out more smoothly along the line. Again, take a bit of superglue/PVA glue and place it up near the tack and allow it to run down the line. Let the glue dry and then add subsequent layers until you are satisfied with the result. I kept my drool clear, but between steps 2 and 3 is where I would add any coloration, such as a green for bioacid or blue for a water effect.
When the glue goes on initially, it is nice and shiny. As it dries, it tends to go a bit more matte.
Step 4: Gloss the drool
The last step is to varnish the drool to get that life like effect. I simply layered on some undiluted gloss varnish to give it that highly reflective sheen as well as add a bit more volume to the spit.
Once you have the drool completed, cut to length and superglue in place as I did on Reaper's Eyebeast.
Step 1: Gather the tools
The things needed for the drool I make are pretty simple. You need an "armature" for the drool to hang off of. Here I have used 4 pound test fishing line, but anything that is thin, fairly flexible, and clear will do. For the drool itself, I used two types of glue. I like the Gel Control Loctite for the base of the drool, then regular Loctite superglue for building it up. Again, anything that dries clear would work well, and I think PVA glue would suffice. Finally, gloss varnish will be the last item you will need.
Step 2: The skeleton and first layer
First, I cut the fishing line to length. I cut it a bit longer than what I am going to need. This allows for two things; I can hang the line vertically on a pen or pencil with some putty or tack (as seen here) and I have a little room for error to get the drool the right length. The pen and tack just make it easier to get that "blob" at then end of the drool due to water tension.
Next I add the gel type superglue. I prefer this as my initial layer because I can "mold" it a bit with a toothpick to pull the glue down along the thread and get it in a position that I prefer. I place the blob of glue up near the tack and then use a toothpick or the nozzle of the superglue to tease the glue down the line until the majority of it is at the tip. This gives you the nice "blob" from water tension seen with real life drool. The regular superglue especially (and to a lesser degree PVA) is very fluid and since you are trying to get it to stick to a very thin piece of fishing line, and in my experience was a pain in the bahooky to try and control. The glue just dripped off the end of the line, leaving only a very small portion still coating the tip. Allow this to dry.
Here is a close up of Step 2:
Step 3: Thickening the spit
At this point, I use something a bit more liquid. You could add more gel if you want, but I prefer the thinner stuff now because it tends to layer out more smoothly along the line. Again, take a bit of superglue/PVA glue and place it up near the tack and allow it to run down the line. Let the glue dry and then add subsequent layers until you are satisfied with the result. I kept my drool clear, but between steps 2 and 3 is where I would add any coloration, such as a green for bioacid or blue for a water effect.
When the glue goes on initially, it is nice and shiny. As it dries, it tends to go a bit more matte.
Step 4: Gloss the drool
The last step is to varnish the drool to get that life like effect. I simply layered on some undiluted gloss varnish to give it that highly reflective sheen as well as add a bit more volume to the spit.
Once you have the drool completed, cut to length and superglue in place as I did on Reaper's Eyebeast.
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